Pocket squares, you gotta know when to hold ’em, you gotta know how to fold ’em.
Last I checked there were over 50 different pocket square folds out there. Sure most of them look like badly done origami, but somwhere, someone just keeps adding folds to the list. Personally I like to keep it simple and really just use about 2 or 3 different folds with variations of each other.
The kind of fold you decide on can be dictated by what part of the square you’re wanting to show, or what kind of look you’re going for – discreet or flamboyunt? My best advice is to match it with your look. If your look is very busy, try to tone it down with a simple pocket square fold. In this case, with such a pattern heavy look, I decided on the “Puff” (that’s it’s name I promise) as a more relaxed fold.
Step one is perhaps the hardest of all steps and that’s choosing your pocket square. The rule of thumb is that your pocket square should compliment your tie and shirt – I said complement not match, they should NEVER match. If you need more details on how to match your pocket square, you can take a look at one of my earlier Dressiquete blog posts here – be warned though, it’s really old so the pictures aren’t great, I was, however, way funnier back then so that’s a plus!
Most pocket squares tend to have a border nowadays, so if you’re going for the “puff” fold, make sure the centre of the pocket square is where the action is as this particular fold won’t show the borders.
Now that you’ve picked your pocket square, you need to gently squeeze it between your thumb and forefingers right in the centre. Pocket squares usually come pre folded in a square, so the centre should be easy to find – it’s where all the creases meet : )
You’ll notice some pocket squares have different tones on different sides (depending on how they are woven) so make sure the side you want to show is on the outside.
Keeping the centre of your pocket square between your thumb and forefinger, loop the thumb and forefinger from your spare hand (you should have one spare at this point – if not it’s back to step 1 for you) loosely around the top of the pocket square. Now slide your looped fingers about halfway down the pocket square.
You may need to do this a few times till you find the best spot for step 4. Of course, this will make a lot more sense in step 4.
Still holding the centre of the pocket square between your fingers fold it in half so that the tips meet. Now wrap your fingers around it all to keep it in place for step 5.
This may be the trickiest of all steps, and you may need to do it a few times in combination with step 3 before you get it right. Dont worry, it’s totally normal, I still do it a couple of times before I get what I want.
This is where your own personal style gets to come in. Take your folded pocket square and puff out the edges. You can make it as big or small as you like.
Don’t worry about getting it perfect though, there will be time for that later.
Step 6 is easy. I mean, really easy. All you do is take your perfectly puffed pocket square and shove it down into your lapel pocket.
You’re gonna need to do some final adjusting in the end and puff it up just the way you like it so don’t worry if it get’s a little bent out of shape going in.
A final word of advice: Don’t fiddle with it too much (I’m talking about your pocket square of course), you want it looking good, not perfect, nothing should ever look too perfect. I know that sounds like bad advice, but trust me, there is great style in the imperfect.
All that’s left to do now is go out there and own the day. Should be easy enough.
If you’re shopping for pocket squares you can find this one at Kurt Geiger online here.
Okay. Stay Fancy.