Archive

Dressiquete

Metal-with-metalmatchIve been seeing a lot of guys breaking this rule, and although it’s a fairly simple one, it can be difficult to get right if your wardrobe doesnt allow it.

As with most menswear rules, it’s a little obvious and as I said, fairly simple, whenever you’re wearing metal (anything) make sure that it is of the same colour or kind.

I get that most things come in silver and so this is pretty easy with watches, tie clips and belt buckles. But then of course you need to try and deal with fashionable elements like the current rose gold / brass trend, it’s gonna be pretty tricky to match everything in these occasions, that’s when I would suggest taking a different colour completely, and rather match the colour to something in your outfit like a coloured tie clip or a matt black belt buckle.

Sound simple enough? That’s because it really kinda is.

Here’s a closer look at the details.

lapel-flowertie-clipwatchbelt-buckleWhile we’re on the topic of matching though, here’s another quick tip. Just like you should always match your belt to your shoes, leather and leather should also be matched, so when you find yourself wearing a brown leather belt, make sure your watch strap compliments it just so.

If you like any of the above, you can find them here:

Lapel flower from Suited Man

Pocket square from Suited Man

Tie clip from Suited Man

Watch by Daniel Wellington

Belt from ASOS

Okay. Stay fancy.

 

 

french-cuffs cufflink-watch-style-bloggerMuch like all  the other dressiquete rules, this one is pretty simple.

When you’re wearing a shirt that has french cuffs, you should always wear a jacket and of course cufflinks.You can identify a french cuff shirt as the cuffs are doubled over and there are no buttons with which to fasten them, hence forth why you need cufflinks.

Yes sure, I know, lots of your friends wear their french cuffs rolled up nice and high to give them a chunky roll up and you often see some guys down at the local, wearing a french cuff shirt with a pair of jeans and no jacket, sure, but we don’t wanna be most guys, do we? No, we wanna be gentlemen, and a gentleman knows what not to do when it comes to french cuffs.

While were on the topic, lets talk about those cufflinks and what to match them with. Like most of your metal accessories, you should aim for matching them with the other metal in your outfit, so gold watch, gold tie pin, gold cufflinks, gold belt buckle. Hmm…jeez, maybe tone down on the gold a little there midas.

If you’re getting fancy and there is of course no reason not to get fancy, you can also pair the colours of your cufflinks with the colours of your outfit, thats simple enough. When it comes to novelty cufflinks, well, they take on the same rules as novelty ties and socks, when in doubt, dont do it.

Always be in doubt.

So to get you started on this new french cuff adventure here are some basics to get you going, I’ve picked some stuff from the David Donahue collection at Nordstrom because I think it’s well priced for the quality, and the last think you want is a cheap french cuff, don’t even get me started on cheap cufflinks.

Get the purple gingham shirt here

Get the blue striped shirt here

Get the white shirt here

Get the 9 squared silver cufflinks here

Get the sterling silver and blue cufflinks here

Get the gold knot cufflinks here

Okay. Stay fancy.

pocket-sqauresIt should really be OR shirt, your pocket square should compliment your tie or your shirt, or ideally I think both. Now when I say compliment, I mean exactly that, compliment, not match. Yes, I know that some stores sell matching tie and pocket squares sets, but you should never shop at those stores, they’re like the dark shadowy places in the lion king. The only thing you should ever buy in pairs are socks, gloves and shoes.

So, what is the trick to complementing, well the easiest way is to try and find colours that match so if you have a solid green tie, maybe go for a patterned pocket square that has just a hint of that colour, as in the example below.

green-and-camoCamo-pocket-squareThis naturally works the other way around when wearing a patterned tie, it is easiest to go for a solid pocket square, simply pick up on a colour in the tie ( this works great with tartan ) and match them.

blue-and-purpleburgundy-pocket-squareLastly, and when you start feeling a little more confident, you can start mixing it up with patterns and textures, the key is that nothing should ever feel out of place, unless you want it to, then it must be COMPLETELY different, nothing half hearted or it will feel like a mistake.

Here is some crazy pattern mixing, I find floral prints make amazing pocket squares as they are just so incredibly versatile.

pocket-square---mixed-patternspocket-square-close-up

Notice how, the brown and green in the flower pick up on the browns and greens in the tie, the red in the flower picks up on the maroon of the shirt and the overall white in the pocket square accentuates the polka dots on the shirt.

In my opinion, when in doubt, go for a solid tie and a patterned pocket square, the pocket square for my is that really nice detail that you see so little off its better to make it interesting. You also don’t need to spend a fortune on these guys an expensive pocket square looks just as good as cheap one…or a cheapish one (the edging is usually a dead give away).

One last bit of advice with your pocket square, always carry 2. Yep, or as the saying goes, ‘one for blowing and one for showing’ one in your back pocket for, cleaning up a spilt drink, wiping sweat off your brow or blowing your nose – gross – and then one that goes into your breast pocket that never gets touched. I dont think I need to explain why.

Okay. Stay Fancy.

All ties and pocket squares in this post by LVJ Haberdasher and Heywood 1922

 

thin with with , thick with thickIt’s been a while since I did a dressiquete posts. a little fashion rule to keep us in check.

Lapels and ties. That’s what we’re talking about here.

This particular rule is so simple it requires almost no explanation.

Is your lapel narrow? Then go with a narrow tie.

Is your lapel wide? Then go with a Wider tie.

Check out the images below for ultimate clarity. They’re both amazing outfits from Suit Supply.

thin-with-with-,-thick-with-thick3 thin-with-with-,-thick-with-thick2Why the rule you ask?

Well, have you ever seen a mismatched couple walking hand in hand through a mall? That’s why.

Okay. Stay Fancy.

 

 

Tom Ford says, “keep your jacket buttoned. Always. It’s just really flattering” and Tom Ford is right, because even though Tom Ford puts on his pants one leg at a time like the rest of us, when his pants are on, he’s Tom Ford.

So now that we know our jackets should always be buttoned, it opens up a whole new set of questions, and rules. Firstly, the “always” part of keeping your jacket buttoned applies only to when you are standing, it should be unbuttoned when you sit down.

With regards to the above sometimes, always, never rule it applies to the actual buttons on your suit or blazer jacket, starting with a 3 button jacket (You shouldn’t own a jacket or blazer with more than 3 buttons unless you are actually in Boys 2 Men and the year is 1992). Basically the top button is optional and depends on the cut.

With 2 button suits it gets a little simpler, you just never button the bottom button.

A single button suit requires very little thought, with the 1 button and all.

So what to do when you’re stepping out and wearing a double breasted suit or a waistcoat. they also come in varied button configurations based on the cut and the trend of the time. The rule here is a little simpler, the bottom button always remains unbuttoned.

Legend has it that Kind Edward VII started the trend of leaving the last button of his suit undone, this isn’t to say that the king was a fashionista with a keen eye for trend spotting, but more to say that the king was a fatty. Yep, his suit got too tight so he would leave the button open, eventually the same for his waistcoat, and so on…as time passed and out of respect for the fat king, it became custom. 

Okay. Stay fancy.

* All the above items currently on Zara.Com

 

 

I love rules like this.

They make dressing up simple. Your shirt has buttons, make sure your tie bar sits between the 3rd and the 4th button of that shirt. Simple.

Tie bars are the kind of fashion accessory that never really go away they just seems to re invent themselves in different eras of fashion. They’re quite hot right now, and having just done a post on 2 awesome ones I had recently got my hands on, I thought I would do a post on the correct way of wearing them, or at least the correct contemporary way of wearing them.

You see, traditionally a tie bar is worn between the 4th and 5th shirt button, but the new updated look has it sitting a little higher, as illustrated above. I like to think, anywhere around your sternum, so a little higher or lower either way wont be a disaster, as sometimes it’s going to depend on the cut of your suit and width of your tie.

Why the width of your tie? Well, a big NO in tie bar dressiquete is wearing a tie bar that is wider than your tie, it just looks crap. Modern tie bars are actually shorter than the width of your tie, but I do think that may just be a trend.

Final piece of tie bar dressiquete, the tie bar doesn’t only keep the 2 pieces of your tie together, it is meant to be attached to the placket of your shirt to stop your tie from moving around.

If you’ve decided you rather like this whole tie bar vibe and dot yet own one, here’s a post I did earlier where you can find some amazing ones.

Okay. Stay Fancy

 

 

How loose are your pants?

Are they so loose that you need to be double sure they don’t fall down?

Well, then get yourself a smaller pair of pants.

I saw this the other night and it kinda shocked me, what really shocked me was that a very ‘gentlemeny’ cigarette brand had dressed up there reps like this. Yep, wearing suspenders, and belts (not to mention the fact that their ties were only half way down their shirts). The ruling on this is simple “braces or belt” all you need do is chose one, both are designed to keep your pants up.

Just to avoid confusion, the rule applies to suspenders and braces alike. Yes, there is a difference.

The image above shows a pair of braces.

Braces attach to your pants with buttons, and are traditionally found on suits, they were designed to keep your pants at an exact height. I’ve seen a couple of casual items sporting buttons for braces, and its right up my style alley, a little bit of gentlemen style made young and fun.

The image above shows Chuck Bass (I don’t care, that’s what I’m calling him). Chuck is sporting a pair of suspenders.

Suspenders are defined by the clip that attaches them to your pants, and are generally made of cheaper materials than braces, generally, but not always.

Don’t worry if you didn’t know the difference, before I wrote this post, neither did I and I’m pretty sure you can get away with calling them either or, just please don’t wear them with a belt.

Okay. Stay fancy.

Weirdly enough, there is a lot of debate out there regarding wether your socks should match you shoes, or wether they should in fact match your pants. It would appear though that the general consensus is “your socks should match your pants” like in the example below.

You see, all that you’re really trying to do is create a seamless transition from your the hem of your pants to your shoe so as you walk and your pants sway, there isn’t an unsightly break in the color. So the thought of matching your socks to your shoes is generally the same, though it can start getting tricky when wearing grey pants and brown shoes, either way I believe this rule should only be followed on the most formal of formal occasions, like meeting the queen. Otherwise your outfit is as bland as this grey blur above.

Personally, I’m a huge fan of the bright colored sock. I think it takes something formal and makes it less serious and as with all rules in fashion if you break it with confidence it works.

Then there’s this guy, the “european sock” and for those of you who follow our Instagram feed will already know, I’m not shy to show a little skin around the ankles. I wish I had a better explanation as to why, but I don’t. It’s a european thing I guess, something I picked up somewhere ages ago and just loved, I believe it requires a good comfy hidden sock to work, but the fashionistas say go the whole hog. Meh, I’ll take the comfort route on this one.

Okay. Stay fancy.

 

 

 

This will be the second of the dressiquete posts. And again, these rules are not mine, just the formal rules by with men should dress by. This one is simple. “Your belt should match your shoes”, like this guy here. Hey dapper beard face man. The problem is, most men struggle with this, well, they either struggle or don’t care, I guess it’s because they think the rule is black and white, but like most rules it isn’t, it too has its little bit of flex.

Below I’ve shown the most common shoe colours, Black, brown and tan, If you don’t already own all 3, you should. What I’ve also tried to do, is show some flexibility in the rule, and this part may be a little more my advice than law, but I doubt the fashion police are gonna stop you for trying. Each pair of shoes is paired up with 3 belts, the belt on the far left is your fail safe, when in doubt match as closely as you can. The belt in the middle, is when you wanna have some fun and maybe introduce some colour, and of course I don’t mean roller coaster type fun, just merely fashion fun, you wanna have roller coaster type fun then ride a roller coaster. Better yet drink 3 beers and ride a roller coaster. I digress.

You see the “belt should match your shoes” rule speaks merely to the tone, If you only never wear a brown belt with black shoes, or vica versa you should be good to go, but introducing color will always work if you stick to the same tone. This is why I have paired the black shoes with blue (especially good when worn with jeans to make your look less formal) and some of the brown shoes with woven more textured colored belts. Finally the last belt is to remind you to pick up on the texture of the shoe, this small shift can change the look from formal to fun quite easily., however, when it comes to suede, stick to double suede, something about the inside and outside of a cow just fails to work for me.

All belts and shoes on this post (except beard face at the top) are available right now at ASOS, tell them I sent you. Kidding, they’ll never remember me. But seriously, tell them I sent you.

Okay. Stay Fancy

When it comes to mens fashion there are certain rules one should adhere to, after all we don’t wanna go out there looking like douche bags now do we? No, no we don’t! So I thought it would be good to start a little “Dressiquete” (see what I did there) part of the blog. Now before I depart with the first in the series let me make it super clear that these are certainly not my rules, I never made them up and I would go as far as saying that most of them can probably not be traced to an origin. They have probably been passed down from generation to generation, like a good brownie recipe, choosing to follow them is of course, up to you.

Ok, so tie length. The rule simply states “Ties run button to button” that is your tie should cover the top button on your collar and the button of your pants. There is of course some leeway here, not much, but some, I generally like the tip of my tie to touch my belt buckle. If you don’t get it right the first time, just do it again, you’ll get the hang of where to start tying to get it right.

Okay. Stay Fancy.

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 2,822 other followers